Six months ago I wrote a post about my favourite eateries in Krakow and that post was an absolute win. I shared it around and heard back from friends visiting the Polish city that it had actually helped them more than random reviews on TripAdvisor. I guess that word of mouth from a friend, even though in the form of a blog post, is still perceived as pretty valuable advice. So I recently returned to Krakow for a wedding and decided to do it again and indulge in my favourite activity while in Krakow – eating out – for the sake of my blog.
The previous post’s focus was on the restaurants and bars I had loved when I was living and working in Krakow. Those I took my guests to and I myself kept going back to during the 2 years I spent there. This time I wanted to focus on something different, so I decided to explore a more hipster side of Krakow’s food scene.
A French bakery and café
Back in December, when I was preparing the materials for my previous post, a friend took me to a totally new place. Although I did take some photos of the café we visited, I decided not to include it in my post as I wanted to focus on the restaurants of my “old” days. In fact, when I was living in Krakow that place didn’t even exist there. So on my recent trip I paid my second visit to Bonjour Çava on ulica Dolnych Młynów 10/7c.
Dolnych Młynów and the Tytano complex
I used to walk down ulica Dolnych Młynów quite often, it was my fastest way to the city centre. The abandoned buildings of the old cigarette factory run along quite a portion of the street and always gave it that gloomy and desolate look. I used to peek into the front yard and admire as well as pity all that industrial architecture standing there, abandoned. The cigarette factory was founded in 1876, it survived both wars and during its years of maximum productivity employed over a thousand workers (90% of them women). It eventually closed operations in 2002 and its buildings were left abandoned and unused until the summer of 2016, when Tytano Foundation managed to rent the space to locate there start-ups, microcompanies, co-working areas, artist’s workshops and restaurants. Their main goal is to keep these premises alive.
Kazimierz, the heart of the Krakow movida
So I had a wonderful day that started with coconut pie and ended with cocktails and quesadillas – how about the rest of my time in between those meals? I hopped on a tram and headed to Kazimierz, the Jewish district. Every visitor to the beautiful Polish city becomes soon familiar with the lively spirit of bustling Kazimierz, the neighbourhood that hosts some of the most famous restaurants and pubs in Krakow. It is the perfect location for a night out, especially on those summer days when the sun sets late in the evening. But I used to love it all year round, really.
My favourite place in Kazimierz is Alchemia, a hauntingly beautiful bar with a concert room in the basement. It is where Editors filmed their music video to the song You Don’t Know Love, and at night candles are the only source of light. The only reason why Alchemia didn’t make it to my previous post is because I had chosen a different pub for their awesome selection of beers (here, in case you missed it). Now I want to talk about their restaurant.
A few years ago, just around the corner (literally) from the historic Alchemia pub, the restaurant Alchemia Od Kuchni was launched. With its internationally inspired menu and peculiar interior décor, Alchemia Od Kuchni rightfully owns the term hipster in all its best meanings. Sitting there and having a meal feels like being inside a design magazine. You know, one of those artsy independent press papers you can find at trendy universities.
The food is amazing. Their menu varies seasonally and features recipes and ingredients from various international culinary traditions. For example, when we visited this time, my boyfriend had pad thai (served on a very Polish enamel plate) and I went for a mixed salad with grilled manouri cheese and walnuts. Two years ago I had sampled a salad with halloumi cheese and grilled watermelon and I still dream of it.
The whole district of Kazimierz was a dodgy area back in the 90’s. Not safe and not popular. Slowly, things started to change and now it is one of the most fashionable parts of the city. Hip bars line the streets of this district, being authentic tourist attractions themselves. I like to think that the same future awaits the Tytano complex on ulica Dolnych Młynów. Time will tell.
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Oh gosh all that food looks so amazing! That street is just super adorable. I’d love to visit Krakow one day and now i know where to get amazing food!
Of course once you visit Krakow you cannot miss some traditional food, but you cannot only eat pierogi every day. So now you’re covered when it comes to good alternatives 😉 Thanks for stopping by!
I have been hearing a lot of great things about Krakow lately but I never thought I would want to go there for the food as well. I really hope to be able to visit soon!
Traditional food might not be very appealing, unless one is really into pork, potatoes, cabbage and such Eastern European delicacies. But the city has been developing a real taste for ethnic and fusion cuisines and the offer is really wide for those who want to sample something different.
All the places seem very good, definitely saving this post for later! I wish to visit Krakow, I was there once as child so I do not remember it so well 🙂 And your photos are amazing, wish to have so nice photos from the cafes or restaurants but I am so shy to take photos in such a places 😀
Thak you! But believe me, I am usually pretty afraid of people judging me when I start arranging the food on my table and I usually don’t let my boyfriend start eating before I’m done with my photos. I am planning on printing my business cards soon, so that if I’m being judged I can always pop my card and say it’s not “just instagram” 😛
Anyway do consider visiting Krakow since you’re based in Prague. It’s absolutely doable as a weekend trip by car. I did the opposite, visited Prague from Krakow 😉
Well all I have to say is I wish I had a list like this when I was in Krakow a year ago! The places that you’ve listed sounds amazing – and you’re photos totally sold them! I loved the foodie scene when I was there, so this list is making me want to go back and try these spots!
Thank you very much Jin! Glad you like my photos. You never know, you may end up back in Krakow. The foodie scene that is developing there is really amazing.
Looks like a really nice place to visit. Love that fact you can eat a pad Thai in a old polish plate! Great info.
Thanks Lucy! I am obsessed with those enamel plates! My great-grandma used to have all crockery in that style and I love it!
YUM!!! This looks amazing. I didn’t know Krakow had such a foodie scene.
Thank you very much! Glad to have introduced to you the Krakow foodie scene 😉
The food looks divine! I love exploring the ‘hip side’ of cities, as well as the food scene, so I think I’d really enjoy Krakow 🙂
You would probably really like it then! Many great places to have coffee and cake, also!
I always love reading tips about good places to eat. Definetly noted some things down from this post and your other post about Krakow. Yum Yum
Thank you Ellis! I’m glad you’re finding my posts useful and I hope you’ll have a great foodie experience in Krakow!
I loved Krakow. I visited it on a field trip from the university back in 2012. There are sooo many Georgian restaurants, I stumbled upon on them in every corner, literally 😀
Georgian cuisine is very popular indeed! That is where I fell in love with it. I wrote about my favourite Georgian restaurant in Krakow in an older post; I couldn’t not write about Georgian food in the review of my personal favourite eateries 🙂
These places look and sound amazing! Do you know about vegan options in the city?
Actually, in the very same Tytano complex there is also a vegan restaurant! I didn’t check it out so I don’t know how’s the food, but it’s there. Not far from there, there is also a vegetarian bar that may have some vegan options as well. Vegan cooking is not very popular but I have the feeling it’s spreading a bit more in recent years; plus many cafés have also soy milk for the coffee.